Resources

Site Selection

All of the seedlings want sun, protection from wind, well-drained soil and to be close enough to YOU that you will visit them often, checking in on them, enjoying them!

Once you have selected a good spot or spots with the above characteristics, it’s time to kill what is there so that these new guys can have a fresh start without having to complete with other plants or weeds that have had years to develop roots and take over. This can be done a few ways. We use one of two organic methods. You can either do:

Raised bed method:

The great things about this is you can just build on top of the ground. No need to dig or turn anything.

Build a 10’ x 3’ x 1’ deep box out of wood, bricks, metal. Note, te box does not have a bottom or a top. it is Just 4 sides.

Lay down a triple layer of newspaper across the bottom as a weed barrier.

Fill “box” with potting soil.

In-ground method : Do 1 month ahead

Kill existing plants using solarization.

Water deeply

Using a clear plastic tarp, cover the area and (this is very important) using boards or rocks or other weights, create a tight seal between the wetted ground and the plastic. Think suction. Place the weights all along the edge of the plastic and a few down the middle, if width is greater than 4’.

Wait for 2-3 weeks

Peal back plastic. If weeds have been well cooked (they look and feel nice and fried), fork the soil (loosen it with a garden fork). If not, repeat above steps and try to get a better seal. Once weeds are killed - when forked you do not see living weed roots, add an inch or two of compost over the entire bed and work this into the soil with the fork.

Then, for both methods, once area has been prepped, Plant.

Take care to plant taller varieties on the North side of the bed and shorter varieties on the South side of the bed. In general, a 9” spacing will be sufficient.

Taller varieties that will need an 18” spacing and staking that should be planted along the Northern side of the bed include: Apple of Peru, Amaranth, Nicotiana, Dahlias.

Mid Height varieties include : Snapdragons, Pincushion, Strawflower, Celosia, Cynoglossum.

Short Varieties include : Phlox, Mignonette, Zinnia, Jewels of Opar.

The goal here is to mimic a cool (38-45 degree) winter soil. Minimal water (anything tuberous is going to be susceptible to rot) but not completely dry or they will wither. I check on ours monthly. What I want to see is smooth solid potato-like flesh. No mold. No mush. If you see either, toss. If the soil is light-colored and dry. spritz it and re-cover with a few layers of newspaper.

Timing : after all danger of frost - late May / early June for in-ground. Earlier (see Jumpstart) if you want a longer/earlier harvest)

Tools needed:

Pot - if starting early

Shovel

Garden lime

Bone Meal (extra credit)

JUMPSTART: If you want to do some extra work and get a longer harvest, pot up your dahlias when you receive them. Use regular soil — whatever you have in your yard. Get a pot with drainage big enough to give you 2” below and 2” above tuber. Plant tuber on it’s side with the “tail” (like on a carrot, the stringy part) lower and the crown higher and, if possible, towards the center of the pot so the sprouts will be somewhat centered. We use plastic pots that are about 8” tall and 6” wide. (Note, tubers are all different sizes and pot size will vary. There is no relationship to tuber size and production). Water in and then keep them in a warm room - 68*. Check on them daily :) Different tubers take different amounts of time to sprout. Expect 1-3 weeks. DO NOT WATER again until they come up. And then, water ONLY once a week or so. Once they sprout, move them to a very sunny location. If days are warm, set them out during the day and bring them in at night. Then, plant them in the ground in late May / Early June once all danger of frost has passed.

Regular Planting : If you want the more sane, easier route, plant once all danger of frost has passed, late May/Early June. Do keep an eye on night temperatures. We have areas on the farm that are cooler than others and can get a light frost even in June! When planting, the crown of your tuber should be 2” below the soil. Dig a hole to accommodate your tuber so that it has nice airy loose soil to grow into a few inches below and around it and the crown is at that 2” below the surface level. If you know you have acidic soil, sprinkle a 1/3 cup of garden lime into and around the hole including mixing it into the soil that will go on top of the tuber when you fill in the hole. Work it into the soil.

Tuber orientation:

Lay tuber on its side in the hole with the crown area (top of “carrot” not skinny tips) a little higher and at the center of the hole. Fill hole back up and water tuber in. Do not water again until they come up.

Do not add compost.

Dahlias want sun and good drainage and a fairly neutral ph. Once you have found and sunny high or well-drained site (or even a large pot (12”x12”) dig a hole. Loosen soil in hole. Test depth by placing pot in the hole. If you know you have acidic soil, spring about a half cup of garden lime throughout soil that will be around plant - in hole, in backfill soil, on surface around plant. 1/2 cup total for all the dirt around the plant.

Place a 3’ stake at the base of the hole if you have one on hand. Almost all varieties we grow produce large plants that benefit from support.

Plant dahlia. You can plant slightly deeper but do not plant more shallow than the current soil level.

Water in and then water weekly around base of plant. Try to avoid watering leaves.

Once plant is about 12” tall, tie main stalk loosely to stake for support. You may want to re-tie again every additional 6” or so of growth after the first foot.

Each flower has a specific harvest stage that is ideal. For dahlias, you will want to harvest deeply (14”+ stalk) especially early on. I know it can feel sad to harvest buds that have not opened. But, future stems and future growth will be stronger and healthier if you harvest deeply from the start.

For other flowers, if you harvest and you bring your flowers in and they wilt - neck flops, they were too young. Wait until the stalk is tougher. This can happen with strawflower, pincushion and zinnias. I like to feel for a tough hollow stem (don’t squeeze, this is how they drink!) and a flower that looks “good.” Eucalyptus is especially tricky and you want to wait an extra long time until stalks are leathery - no fresh green tips. for harvest. Eucalyptus can (and should) be potted up and brought inside for the winter. More on overwintering in another section.